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this allows you to separate the top shell from the bottom one. [update 20100221:] This is one of the most delicate steps in the whole procedure, as Douglas Ray points out. He found an alternative solution to the tricky bit (unfortunately I cannot provide any pictures of that – Douglas has also included a screw list which is below the next picture).
“The hardest part in disassembling the M2452 is to preserve the upper shell's front-edge snap links.
I've discovered how to do it.
You DON'T separate the upper shell from the lower – not at that forward edge!
Once you have all 10 screws out, the whole internal assembly will lift out (backwards; easily). The upper and lower shells simply hinge, like a clam (not too far: something like 30 degrees).
You don't need to remove the upper shell to extract those upper 6 screws. Once the underside 4 screws are out, and the back (USB) edge of the case shells are unclipped, the upper shell can be moved enough to extract all remaining screws. (You don't even need to remove the keycaps, excepting the shift-lock).
You do need to remove the adhesive translucent plastic baffle-strip (to remove the screws) and to unseat the USB connectors (to lift out the internal assembly).
The 4 upper screws at the rear can be removed just by removing the baffle-strip and hinging the upper shell. The remaining 2 upper screws require hinging the upper shell (only 30 degrees or so), and then gently flexing it to one side (maybe one or two millimeters). The driver will still have a small offset from perpendicular.”